A Stay at Shogetsu Ryokan, Nemuro
A Ryokan Famous for Its Handmade Seafood Kaiseki Cuisine
The Kuril Current is rich in nutrients and plankton, which is why it is known as the Oyashio, or “the current that nurtures fish.” Nemuro, the easternmost city in Hokkaido, lies directly in the path of this Oyashio Current.
Shogetsu Ryokan is a long-established ryokan founded in the Meiji era, where you can enjoy carefully prepared, delicious handmade dishes using locally sourced seafood.
Luxurious kaiseki meals made with fresh, fatty fish, crab, shrimp, and shellfish grown in the cold waters of the Okhotsk Sea are served right in your room. The signature dish is uni chawanmushi (steamed egg custard with sea urchin). A whole Hanasaki crab, glowing bright red, is served—one entire crab per guest.
Is there any reason not to visit a ryokan like this?
In this article, I would like to share my stay at Shogetsu Ryokan in Nemuro.
I first stayed here in March 2019, and the unforgettable flavors of Nemuro left a lasting impression on me. Since then, I have returned twice more, in June 2021 and December 2021.
Table of Contents
Ryokan Facilities
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Exterior
The exterior of Shogetsu Ryokan in Nemuro.
Entrance and Staircase
The entrance and staircase. The slippers are neatly lined up, and both the corridor and staircase are spotlessly clean.
Corridor
The second-floor corridor. The hallway is polished and very clean.
Hot Water Pot
A hot water pot for tea.
Guest Room
Before bedtime, the futon bedding was laid out for the night.
Shared Restroom Wash Area
The wash area of the shared restroom. It has a clean and simple design.
Dinner
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Dinner Spread
This is dinner. This meal is the highest-tier Tsukizen, a private in-room kaiseki dinner. There are three dinner tiers at Shogetsu Ryokan: Tsukizen, Shozen, and Kanzen. Both Tsukizen and Shozen are served in the guest room.
- (An array of truly magnificent dishes)
- • The bright red Hanasaki crab
- • Grilled Kinki (splendid alfonsino), a premium fish, seasoned simply with salt
- • On the blue four-leaf-shaped plate at the front left: Hizu-namasu, a vinegared dish made from salmon head cartilage, served with hanpen fish cake dressed in egg-yolk vinegar
A Table Full of Dishes
[Half-Moon Tray]
- At the very back:
- Shogetsu Ryokan’s signature dish, Uni Chawanmushi (steamed egg custard with sea urchin)
- Center:
- Hokkaido striped shrimp and herring roe
- Front right (red bowl):
- A combination of king crab inner roe and botan shrimp
- Front center:
- Whelk mixed with freshly grated raw sea urchin
- Small black dish:
- Kajika fish liver mixed with miso
- Gold-rimmed bowl:
- Simmered Kasube (skate fish), served with green beans and kamaboko
[Maple Leaf Plate]
- The black pearls are king crab outer roe
[Blue Four-Leaf-Shaped Plate]
- Hizu-namasu, made from vinegared salmon cartilage, combined with hanpen fish cake and dressed in egg-yolk vinegar, prepared in a salad-style presentation
Grilled Kinki
Grilled Kinki seasoned with salt. It was so rich and fatty that it almost felt like eating meat.
Hanasaki Crab and Local Sake
Hanasaki crab served with local sake, Kita no Katsu.
Hanasaki Crab, Sashimi, and Local Sake
Hanasaki crab and assorted sashimi.
Hanasaki crab is caught in limited quantities and is rarely seen outside Hokkaido. Nemuro is one of its main landing ports, and I thoroughly enjoyed its deep, rich flavor.
The sashimi appeared to include botan shrimp, surf clam, and scallop.
Local Nemuro sake Kita no Katsu was served. When purchased in Nemuro, it costs around 880 yen for a 750 ml bottle, making it very affordable. It is a dry sake that is smooth, easy to drink, and delicious.
Snow Crab on the Second Night
When I stayed for multiple nights, snow crab was served for dinner on the second evening.
Breakfast
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Breakfast Venue
The breakfast dining area.
Side Dishes
This is breakfast.
The main dish is grilled Pacific saury (sanma) seasoned with salt.
The side dishes include spinach dressed with sesame, grated yam (tororo), chilled tofu, and sweetly simmered knotted kelp. It is a comforting and wholesome Japanese breakfast.
Rice and Side Dishes
Rice was also served.
Hanasaki Crab Miso Soup
Miso soup made with Hanasaki crab. This local Nemuro specialty is known as Teppo-jiru.
Full Breakfast Spread
A full view of the breakfast, including Teppo-jiru (Hanasaki crab miso soup).
Main Dish on a Multi-Night Stay
When staying multiple nights, the main dish at breakfast was grilled salmon with salt.
After-Breakfast Coffee
Coffee served after the meal.
The beans used for this coffee are clearly chosen with great care, and it even has a sweet, vanilla-like aroma. The flavor retains a pleasant bitterness typical of coffee, combined with that gentle vanilla note—it made for a truly happy moment.
